www.carbatterytricklecharger.org Dead battery will never let you down nor hamper your plans in anyway when you own a car Battery Trickle Charger
www.carbatterytricklecharger.org Dead battery will never let you down nor hamper your plans in anyway when you own a car Battery Trickle Charger
An open box & review on my new Manta XL tank bag by Joe Rocket, fitted on a 2007 GSXR 600.
Does you starter make a *click* sound when you try to start your vehicle?
Each time you turn the ignition switch to start, does the starter just *click* one time?
That is probably the starter solenoid.
If it goes, *click-click-click-click*, and so on, it may just be a low battery.
A low battery that makes the starter *click* a few times doesn’t have enough *juice* in it to turn the starter over to turn the flywheel over to turn the crankshaft over to make the engine start…phew!
A simple way to tell if the battery is at fault is to turn the headlights on and turn the ignition switch to start.
If the lights go out, then the battery is probably at fault.
Course, you’ll have to run real fast after you hit the start position in order to see if the lights go out…or have someone out there watching for you.:-)
You can purchase a small inexpensive battery charger at most malls, or parts store.
The best way to use a *trickle* chargers is to charge the batter all night, or all day, whichever pleases you.
You can try charging the battery. If it runs down again, then you need to do something.
Remove the battery terminals from the battery post, if you have the *post* type, and clean the post and the inside of the cable clamp.
If you have the side mount just loosen the 8mm bolt and clean the terminal where it comes into contact with the battery. Clean the part on the battery, too.
Sometimes the battery will build up a lot of corrosion on the outside of the cable clamp.
When this happens, usually, the inside part of the clamp and post will create a hard metallic-like surface.
This stops the flow of electricity from the alternator to the battery.
When you use the battery’s reserve, it’s gone, no more being put in.
If the vehicle does crank, it will run off the alternator, which ain’t good.
If cleaning the post and recharging the battery doesn’t solve the problem, you may need a new one.
Don’t run to the nearest *convenience store* and buy a battery.
Take your battery to a place that sells batteries and have it checked.
If it is gone to where old dead batteries go, then you will have to purchase a new one.
You may have other problems…like the alternator; the tension on the alternator belt… several things could make the battery be low…did you leave the parking lights on when you parked, to go shopping?
See why using a High-Frequency, High-Efficiency battery charger is more convenient. A battery charger that is both smaller and lighter than a traditional charger is essential for those on the move. Learn more at: www.geniuschargers.com
Most modern motorcycles require a motorcycle battery to power its electrical systems. Currently, there are two main types available in the market: the conventional type and the maintenance-free type. Although they are an often overlooked component, knowing the differences between the two types of batteries can help one better understand their specific maintenance needs and cost.
The conventional type of battery consists of flooded electrolyte and cell accessible construction. Although these are less expensive than maintenance-free batteries, they require more attention. Because of the process of electrolysis and evaporation, water loss is normal and therefore, the periodic addition of distilled water is required. If the battery’s water level falls below the minimum fill line, permanent damage to the battery can occur as the lead plates become exposed to the air. For this reason, it’s important to maintain the water levels above the minimum fill lines.
With a maintenance-free battery, on the other hand, water loss is eliminated since the unit is designed to remain permanently sealed once it is filled with acid. Although slightly more expensive than conventional batteries, it is currently popular among many motorcycle enthusiasts. Because the battery unit is completely sealed, all of the acid is absorbed in the special plates and separators – there is no need to worry about acid leaks, or refilling the battery with distilled water. Even after months of normal use, there would be enough electrolytes to keep the plates covered because of the amount of free-standing electrolytes that are above the plates.
Knowing the difference between the two types of batteries can help a rider make a better decision as to what type of motorcycle battery to use for his bike and maintenance habits. Either way, properly maintaining battery will help ensure its long-term use, and can save money in the long run.